Review: Prada SS25

Disruption. Renewal. Juxtaposition. Elements from different eras coexisting simultaneously to challenge any theory of chronology.

MILAN—Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons are well-worn names who don’t rest on their laurels. Their collaboration, announced in 2020, has produced unafraid designs.

Prada’s Spring 2025 show, shown in the concrete landscape of Fondazione Prada, presented exciting new eyewear—and hat—shapes.

Simons is known for an architectural kind of design, that plays with structure and form. Hats, which Prada turned into a thing last winter with its bucket hats, have become a revived medium for shape-making. Revived, because the hat was said to have died when JFK didn’t wear one to his inauguration and has had many faux-revivals since then.

But Simon’s hybrid eyewear-headgear has challenged a lot of conceptions, and I like it a lot. These pieces, even if they aren’t a win today, begin to reclaim something about the power of changing the shape of fashion, for me.

Disruption. Renewal. Juxtaposition. Miuccia’s unquestionable beauty with Simons imperfect reinvention create a fun push-and-pull between two well-known designers. Pencil skirts sit askew on the hips, evening gowns are paired with neon nylon windbreakers.

“There is a plurality of Prada,” the show notes declared, “elements from different eras coexisting simultaneously to challenge any theory of chronology.”